Glasses and Gold Blazer

Fabric: Echino cotton/linen Ni-co Glasses in Gold
Cost: $45

Inspired by my first go at a blazer and some pics I saw online, I decided to try a second one in a crazy print. I am always captivated by the quilting cottons at the fabric store, and fell for this beautiful Japanese print. I don't wear glasses, so I guess this was my subconscious way of getting in on the thick-rimmed glasses craze. Fun and functional and perfect for work or the weekend.

I also took another go at the hong kong seam finish, but this time only for the center back seam. The others I left hidden with french seams.

Here are some more details:



So excited to wear this to work this week :)


You can read the review of this pattern at PatternReviews.com.
And check it out on BurdaStyle!

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Because I am loving this jacket pattern, I wrote down some directions for future use, which you can use as well (I already saw some red fabric in the store and was thinking... Christmas blazer with white piping!) If you go this route, you'll have to pardon my unconventional construction techniques... I'm not trained in any sort of way, like to do just what works for me :)

Alterations while cutting (to fit my measurements): Taper the side seams that lead in to the arm hole so that they are 1/2" smaller at the arm hole. When cutting the front piece, extend the curved portion so it is even with the bottom. I also took the sleeves in 1/2" at each seam, but that was better for a stretchy sweatshirt than a cotton/linen blazer.

Next time, I think I'll also make the front and front sides all one piece, as well as the back and back sides--I don't need something so fitted.

Cut: Cut two extra front pieces, or cut them from contrasting fabric (if from contrasting fabric, cut one of the collar pieces from contrasting fabric as well). The pieces shall be referred to as front piece, collar, contrasting front piece, and contrasting collar.

Step 1: Sew the darts on the four front pieces (the two front pieces plus the contrast front pieces). Fuse interfacing to the contrast front piece and the contrast collar.

Step 2: Sew the back, back side, and side sections together. If doing a french seam, sew them together wrong sides together at 1/4" seam allowance (I did the one back seam regular for a hong-kong finish and the rest as french seams). Try the jacket on before completing the second step of the french seam.

Step 3: Pin two of the front pieces to the jacket. Try the jacket on and adjust fit as needed (mine needed the back piece adjusted at the armhole).

Step 4: Finish the french seams by turning the seam so that right sides are together, and sew at 3/8" seam allowance.

Step 5: Right sides together, sew the front piece to the back piece at the shoulder seam (don't sew the side seams yet), leaving 5/8" open at neck. With the right side of contrast front piece facing down, lay it on top of the inside of the jacket. Sew together at the shoulder seam, leaving the same 5/8" space free. Repeat for other side. (Basically, you are sandwhiching the back shoulder piece between the front and front lining, right sides together.)

If you haven't done your hong kong finishes yet, now is the last chance to do so.

Step 6: Sew the collar (not the contrast collar) to the jacket along the neck across the back and two front pieces, right sides together matching notches. Leave 5/8" at each side open.

Step 7: Pin the contrast collar to the collar along the top, right sides together. Sew, leaving 5/8" open at either end.

Step 8: Ok here comes the weird contortionist part. Making sure the collar and contrast collar are aligned, pin the contrast collar to the contrast front piece (as was done with the collar and front piece). Do not pin the contrast collar to the back piece. Repeat for other side. To make sure that nothing gets twisted, start by pinning the contrast collar to the contrast front piece wrong sides together, then twist to get right sides together.

Step 9: And here's the part we've all been waiting for, when it all comes together. Right sides together, pin down the side of the collar and contrast collar, across the remaining raw edges of the front piece and contrast front piece, and down the side of the front pieces. Sew down the side of the collar, don't sew the inside corner, and then resume with the front pieces, sewing all the way around the curve at the bottom and stop just after the dart.

(Not sewing the inside corner will allow you to turn the piece right side out without any puckering--try it the other way, you'll see! It will get sewn together with the topsitching).

Step 10: Trim the inside and press all the way around. Press the remaining raw edge of the contrast collar under 3/8" and stitch in the ditch on the other side to secure it.

Step 11: Starting at one bottom side at the dart, edge stitch all the way around the front pieces and the collar, all the way to the other front piece to the dart.

Now, treating the front and contrast front pieces as one, sew the to the side piece with a french seam. At the bottom, make sure the hem is folded up.

Step 13: Time to attach the sleeves! French seam the sleeve pieces together, and french seem 'em to the garment.

Step 14: Hem the bottom by turning it under twice. To hold my narrow allowance in place, I basted it on the wrong side, then flipped to the front to do my topstitching.

Step 15: Hem the sleeves. They are super long, so either trim them or have a super wide hem. Because wide hems are difficult on my machine, I turned the sleeve inside out and stuck my machine foot through the hole to sew in place. Can also use above basting technique.

And  a blazer is made!

7 comments:

  1. Wonderful tutorial! Love your blog

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  2. Really cute jacket, great tutorial. I just found your blog through PR, great blog!

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  3. Awesome jacket, love the fabric. Have you found the sewing tutorials and projects over at www.WeAllSew.com yet? I think you'd find something to sew there!

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  4. this is really really awesome! I love the fabric, and it fits great.

    nice to find another blogger in santa cruz, too! I live in aptos, and work downtown. maybe I'll see you!

    have a wonderful sunday, it's been gorgeous out~

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  5. Great blog Meg. This jacket looks so incredibly cool and sharp and fun and RAD! Oh I would like to make one to ride my bike around in too! I'd better get practising....xxx

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